Some sellers are aware of the condition of their games, while others may not know enough about them. These are the sellers who think that if a game loads in the console, it’s in working condition, and that’s all that matters.
Some sellers bought their games from Blockbuster, which covered everything in stickers. To them, that's just how the game came, so someone else should accept it the same way.
Others bought from GameStop, where stickers covered the case, the manual was long gone, and GameStop swapped in their own printed artwork. These are the sellers who say, "I bought it this way, why should you deduct anything?
Then some sellers wrote their last names on the games so they wouldn’t get lost, or so that if a friend borrowed their game, it would be easy to identify it. Just because you wrote on the cartridge for a good reason does not mean The Old School Game Vault will pay full price for it.
The common thread is the same mindset; the condition isn't their fault, so it shouldn't affect what they get paid. While they may have a point, we have to answer to our buyers. If our buyers won't purchase games in these conditions, we can't pay full price for them. It's that simple.
The Table of Contents
Let's discuss how we test & grade video games
These are the things I always look at when a box of games comes into our shop.
How we test disc games
When we buy disc games at The Old School Game Vault, we ask that the games be complete to receive the full quoted value. This means the game should include the disc, manual, artwork, and case.
- We go through each game, visually inspecting the scratches and making sure the games are not loose. Games with heavy scratches we place in a rejection pile, and those that pass the disc scratch test we put in a testing pile.
- While we were checking the game discs for scratches, we also separated out any games that were missing their original manuals. As this is an automatic deduction.
- Once we've broken the games into piles that pass the scratch test, and into piles based on completeness. We’ll then go through the games and check for any cosmetic flaws we might have missed. This is where we’ll look at the disc cases and check the artwork. We’ll examine the artwork for bends, creases, water damage, and/or mold. Nobody wants to buy a retro video game with black mold on the artwork.
- Now that we have the games ready to test, we play each one to ensure it loads and plays. We play the game until we can interact with it, like moving the characters. Then, we’ll double-check the disc surface for scratches and inspect the foil label for any damage.
- Foil label damage: is scratches on the top of the disc where all the game data is stored. For older games, data rot is a big issue, especially on systems like the Sega Saturn and Sega CD. The easiest way to check for data rot or foil label damage is to hold the disc up to a light and see if any light comes through from small holes or scratches.
How we test cartridge games
- The first things we look at are the cartridge shell and the condition of the cartridge label. Stickers and markers are considered cosmetic flaws. But stickers and markers covering the actual cartridge label will result in rejection. Yellowing is another factor we consider. Games that are faded, cracked, chipped, or yellowed are considered cosmetic flaws, which we may or may not reject based on severity.
- While we are inspecting the cartridge, we also verify the authenticity of any rare cartridges. For us, the signs are easy to spot; for others, read our blog articles on spotting counterfeits.
- One thing that comes to mind is checking for rust on old cartridge games like the NES, SNES, and Genesis. Rusty screws often mean rusty internal boards. No one wants to buy a game with a board damaged by water or moisture.
- Games stored for years in attics, garages, or basements may show signs of age. They may have rust on the screws or a little moisture damage on the boards. You don't need water spilled directly on a game to cause serious damage.
- For Example: A Midwest winter in an unheated garage is enough moisture exposure to rust out internal components. When a seller tells me the games were stored in boxes in the basement for 20 years, I already know what I'm likely to find before I even open the box.
- Then the games that clear our cosmetic checks will move on to the testing phase. This is where my guys and I will actually clean the cartridges. I recommend using an eraser, and a Mr. Clean Armor All cleaning wipe is pretty much all I need to get an old cartridge running smoothly.
- In a rare case, if we can get a game to work, we’ll open up the cartridge and actually polish the pins on the internal board. If a cartridge fails to play after opening, it is rejected. But we do our very best to get every cartridge cleaned up so it works. Trust me, I’d rather buy your cartridge than reject it.
How we Grade Complete Games
Completeness doesn’t automatically mean value.
Just because the Nintendo NES game from 1987 is complete in the box doesn’t mean it’s mint, and I should pay extra for it. I don’t want to buy this NES boxed game if it looks like someone has stepped on it. Neither do the collectors to whom I sell games.
Just because the games have the box and manual doesn’t necessarily mean they're worth more money. Collectors want to buy a complete copy of the game that looks as close to the condition it was in when it was sitting on store shelves in 1987.
Every wrinkle, crease, bend, and small tear reduces the value. Then it gets to the point: is it worth buying said game in this condition, or if it’s going to sit on my store shelf for a year or more?
Grading Scales –
For Disc Games – these games need to include the disc, manual, artwork, and original case. Depending on the game, most of our buyers don’t want to buy a game with a blockbuster case or a generic 3rd party case.
Especially in blockbuster cases, most are not long enough to accommodate original artwork. So this causes wrinkles, ripples, and bends to the artwork. Also, the blockbuster case isn’t wide enough on the inside, so the manual generally gets bent or creased.
3rd-party cases aren’t nearly as bad, but it’s another thing we need to be aware of, as certain buyers want nothing to do with a game in a 3rd-party case.
Disc Games Grading Scale
Very Good – Means the game's disc has minimal scratches on the bottom. Or minimal fingerprints. The case may have a sticker on the outside, but the artwork and manual are clean.
Good - is the general category; this usually means game discs with visible scratches and/or smudges on the bottom of the disc. The artwork or the manual may have a flaw. The case may or may not have a sticker.
Acceptable – The game's disc has many visible scratches; when I look at the bottom, the scratches outweigh the clean surface. At that point, there's more damage than there is disc.
Game discs that may be in the good or very good disc grading category may fall into the “acceptable” category due to a series of cosmetic flaws to either the manual or the artwork.
Examples of Disc Games we Reject:
- Games with excess scratches, or those that may have minimal scratching, but have a few really deep scratches.
- Games with foil label damage are immediately rejected.
- Some games work perfectly but have so many cosmetic flaws that almost nobody wants to buy them. If the buyer pool is that limited, we reject them.
Cartridge Games Grading Scale
Very good condition – The game label and cartridge shell have minimal surface scratching. There are no markings, writing, or stickers present on the cartridge shell or label.
Good Condition – The game cartridge has visible surface scratches that are easily visible when held up to a light. The game may have a sticker or sticker residue and may have some minor writing, but the label is intact and undamaged.
Acceptable Condition – Games with noticeable cosmetic flaws, such as heavy stickers, writing, torn labels, or bent labels. This, again, is a category where the game could be easily rejected due to cosmetic flaws.
Examples of Cartridge Games we Reject:
Games with torn labels, cracked or chipped cartridge shells. Stickers covering the front labels, or just excess stickers. Games that are also heavily soiled or just plain filthy will also be rejected.
The Bottom Line
Every game that comes through our door gets evaluated against these standards. It's not personal, it's just how we keep our reputation and quality standards in place.
A game that falls into acceptable condition isn't a bad game; it's just priced accordingly. And a rejected game isn't necessarily garbage; it's just something our buyer pool won't buy at any price that makes sense for either of us.
Ready to Sell Your Collection?
Now that you know what we look for when a box of games comes through our door, you have a better idea of where your games might land on our grading scale. Condition matters because our buyers expect consistency, and we've built our reputation on delivering that for 15+ years.
If you have a collection you're looking to sell, head over to our sell page and get a quote. Whether it's a single game or a garage full of cartridges, we've seen it all. We'll be straight with you on what we can take and what we can pay.
Ready to find out what your games are worth? Start by searching for your titles in our catalog and get a quote today.
